Zucchini Fritters with Lemon Yogurt

A zucchini fritter should give slightly under the fork, then come away with a lacy brown edge still attached. A batter made with all the juice of a grated zucchini has trouble getting there. It needs more flour to hold together, and before long there is enough batter to hide the flavor of the squash. This method draws out some of that water first. The pile of zucchini becomes small enough to mix with one egg and a little flour. Most of what you can see on the finished fritter will still be threads of vegetable.

The lemon yogurt should be ready before the skillet is hot. It takes only a moment to make, but it gives you time to judge whether the yogurt is thick enough to sit beside the fritter without soaking its edge. A little grated lemon zest carries more aroma than a larger quantity of juice and keeps the yogurt from turning thin. Put it in a bowl that can go straight to the table.

Ingredients for about twelve small fritters

• 1 pound zucchini, about 2 medium
• 3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt for salting the zucchini
• 1 large egg
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour, about 40 grams, with more if necessary
• 3 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or parsley
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 to 4 tablespoons neutral oil suitable for frying
• 1/2 cup plain Greek-style yogurt
• 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest and 2 teaspoons lemon juice
• A small pinch of fine sea salt for the yogurt

Choose zucchini with thin, tender skins. One or two medium zucchini are easier to grate than a single overgrown one, which may have a spongy center and large seeds. You can use a big zucchini if you cut it lengthwise and scoop out that soft middle first. Weigh what is left after trimming so the amount of salt stays close to the recipe. Yellow summer squash works too, but it can release a surprising amount of liquid. Take the squeezing step seriously, even if the shreds look fairly dry.

Set out a box grater, a colander, a clean thin kitchen towel, and a wide skillet. A bowl small enough to cradle the colander is convenient if the sink is in use. A baking sheet and a wire rack are useful for holding the first batch while the rest cook. A plate lined with paper towels is fine for a short wait, but the bottom of a fritter can soften if it spends several minutes sitting on absorbent paper.

Salt, then squeeze in small handfuls

Rinse and dry the zucchini and trim both ends. Grate it over the large holes of the box grater. Tip the shreds into the colander, sprinkle on the measured salt, and toss well with your fingertips. Let the colander stand over a bowl or in a clean sink for about 15 minutes. The zucchini should begin to droop, and there may already be liquid below it. Do not judge the result by the amount that drips. Much of the water still needs to be pressed out.

Pick up a handful of shreds and squeeze it over the bowl. Transfer the pressed zucchini to the towel and repeat. Fold the towel around the small pile and twist it until the stream of juice slows to a few drops. The zucchini should feel moist when you open the towel, with no little puddle where you set it down. Untangle the compact bundle with a fork before you add it to the bowl. This prevents the egg from coating the outside of one dense wad while the rest of the batter runs away.

If you are making a double batch, squeeze each recipe's worth separately. More shreds inside one towel require more force and make it harder to tell when the middle has drained. Taste a strand after squeezing. It should be lightly seasoned, since much of the salt leaves with the juice. If it tastes much too salty, rinse the shreds briefly in the colander and squeeze them again. Give the squeezed zucchini a final check before adding it to the egg.

Mix just enough batter to bind the squash

Whisk the egg in a medium bowl until the white and yolk are combined. Add the zucchini, most of the scallions, the chopped herb, and a few turns of black pepper. Sprinkle the flour over the bowl and fold until no dry flour is visible. Scoop up two tablespoons on a spoon. The mixture should hold together in a loose clump. If you see liquid running off it, fold in another tablespoon of flour and check again. Leave the batter a little shaggy. The fritter spreads more evenly if you can see where the shreds start and end.

Mix the yogurt with the lemon zest, juice, and a pinch of salt in a separate bowl. Stir briskly until smooth and refrigerate until serving. Taste the yogurt before adding extra juice. Some brands are already quite sharp. If it becomes thinner than you would like, add another spoonful of plain yogurt rather than trying to thicken it with flour. A tablespoon of chopped dill can go into the yogurt instead of the batter when you want a cleaner green fleck in the fritters.

If you need to wait before cooking, keep the salted zucchini and egg separate in the refrigerator. The shreds continue to release a little water, and a mixed bowl can loosen while it stands. Press out any new liquid before adding the zucchini to the egg. Leave the flour until just before the skillet is ready so you can judge the actual consistency. It is much easier to add a spoonful than to compensate for batter that has already become dense.

Fry a small test fritter first

Heat two tablespoons of oil in the skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, put about two tablespoons of batter into the pan and use the back of the spoon to press it to about 1/3 inch thick. The oil should sizzle steadily at the edge. If the mixture sits silently, raise the heat slightly. If the oil smokes, pull the pan from the heat and let it cool before continuing. Keep a little room around the first fritter so you can get a spatula fully underneath.

Cook for about 2 to 4 minutes on the first side, until the edge darkens and the fritter releases easily. Turn with a thin spatula and cook the other side for 2 to 3 minutes. The center should be set with no wet egg or flour visible, and an egg-based dish should reach 160°F (71°C). Cut the test fritter through the center after moving it to a rack. If the edges are already dark and the middle is still unset, lower the heat and flatten the next one a little more. If it falls apart when turned, wait longer before sliding under it, or stir a small amount of flour into the remaining batter if it seems too loose.

Taste the test fritter once it cools enough. If it is a little bland, you can add a pinch of salt to the batter or use a few flakes on each fritter as it leaves the pan. If you plan to put salty yogurt or cheese on the plate, leave the batter alone. Adjusting a whole bowl of batter is useful only when the flavor would be too mild even with its toppings.

Cook the remaining fritters in batches of three or four. Leave enough space to turn each one without bumping the others. Add another teaspoon or two of oil when the skillet looks dry, and let it warm before spooning in more batter. Scrape out any black crumbs between batches. A very small shred that broke off the first fritter can burn well before the second batch has set. Move the cooked fritters onto a wire rack. Hold them in a 200°F (95°C) oven for a short time if you want to serve the batches together.

Bring the crisp edges to the table

Arrange the fritters in a loose single layer, or lean one against another if the platter is small. Put the yogurt in its own dish or spoon it onto the plates beside the fritters. Scatter the remaining scallions over the platter. If they seem especially sharp, rinse the slices in cold water and dry them on a towel before using. A few slices of tomato make a fresh addition to lunch, particularly if the fritters are already filling most of the plate.

For a larger meal, make the fritters slightly smaller and serve them beside a bowl of warm lentils or a chopped salad. A small fritter gives each person more crisp edges. If you need to stretch a batch for an extra diner, a bowl of lemon yogurt and a stack of warm flatbread can help. Set two fritters on each bread with salad leaves and pass the yogurt separately. A piece that broke in the skillet is just as good tucked into bread.

Refrigerate extra cooked fritters promptly and keep the yogurt separate. To reheat, put them on a wire rack on a baking sheet in a 375°F (190°C) oven until hot throughout and crisp at the edges. A dry skillet over moderate heat also works if you are reheating only two or three. Microwaving can warm the middle quickly but leaves the surfaces softer. A little new lemon zest stirred into the yogurt is enough to bring back its fragrance. At that point the second lunch is mostly a matter of letting the fritters get crisp again before putting them near the cold bowl.